TEAK CARE & USE GUIDE....

To preserve the teak in its natural color for an extended period of time Teak Sealer must be used. Teak Sealer is a solvent based teak finish with water-like viscosity containing pigments, mildewcide, UV inhibitors and moisture protection. use one that does not contain silicone, varnish, polymers or exotic oils.

When Teak Sealer is properly applied to teak, the wood will look as if it has nothing on it, yet it will not turn gray or support the growth of mildew. Surface soil can be washed away with mild detergent, and with seasonal recoating the teak will be preserved in its natural state for many years.

There are a variety of "teak oils" on the market for the protection of teak, these usually consist of linseed or tung oil mixed with mineral spirits. When first applied to the wood, these oils impart a nice finish to the wood, but left outdoors teak oils wear away in weeks and require re-coating. With each re-coat the oiled finish becomes darker and the surface becomes sticky and collects dirt. The organic waste from these oils provides a wonderful garden patch for the growth of mold and mildew. In a very short period of time the wood requires a complete restoration.

Varnish, polyurethane and polymer finishes apply a coating to the wood that will eventually be pushed off by the natural teak oil coming to the surface. The owner is then faced with the major job of stripping and sanding the teak before re-finishing.

If teak has been allowed to weather, the gray and any mildew must be removed before finishing the wood. The cleaning process is harsh on the wood and may contribute to a rough surface if repeated many times.

When teak is newly milled or has been sanded with a mechanical sander the heat from those processes will polish the natural oils in the wood. The dust created from sanding teak is very fine and oily, it will clog the pores of the wood. These two phenomena cause the "waxy" feeling of new wood. This burnished oil and dust must be removed prior to finishing. The finish will not soak into the burnished areas and the dust will absorb the finish and eventually be washed away causing a blotchy appearance.

To clean weathered teak a Teak Cleaner is needed. This product is easy to use and will produce dramatic results. To clean the teak  make sure you wear the appropriate gear goggles, gloves ect. Using a hose, wet the wood thoroughly and be sure to allow plenty of water to flow where the rinse water will run. squirt onto a small area. It is best to work on a small area at a time, overlapping each area and working from top to bottom, not allowing the cleaner to dry on the wood. scrub with a Scotch Brite pad or a soft bristle brush, the wood will turn a deep brown color.  Rinse thoroughly, scrub in the same fashion, the wood will then turn much lighter.  The teak should appear obviously lighter and cleaner, if any stains remain repeat the process. The wood will lighten further as it dries.

Teak Cleaner will remove teak oils, food stains, the residue of varnish. Any solid surface coating like varnish must be removed before using Two Part Cleaner. Never use a brass brush or a pressure washer to clean teak, these methods will scour the soft grain of the wood causing a rough and splintery surface. Never use steel wool to clean teak because it will produce rust spots in the wood. Brass wool is acceptable but a Scotch Brite Pad is the best tool to clean teak.

To apply Teak Sealer the wood must be completely dry. Shake the can or stir the contents to thoroughly mix Teak Sealer has a water-like consistency, appearing opaque in the can. Apply the sealer to the teak using a foam brush applicator allowing the wood to absorb as much as it wants. There are no brush strokes or lap marks to be concerned with. When the first coat is complete, a second coat can be applied immediately. Always apply both coats in the same day. Use a rag to wipe any excess from the wood after each coat. Two coats as an initial application should be sufficient in most cases, as more coats will mask the grain of the wood. The teak will be dry to the touch in an hour and ready for service the next day. Cool, cloudy or damp weather will slow the drying time. A plastic spray bottle eases application to furniture.

When  Teak Sealer is applied to the teak and it has had a week or two to weather, the wood will appear as if it has "nothing" on it, yet the teak will not turn gray or allow the growth of mildew. After cleaning and sealing  the first time, an occasional cleaning with soap and water and a single fresh coat of Sealer applied seasonally will keep the teak looking great for years to come. If water dashed on the surface beads up, then the  is still working and does not need re-coating. Avoid applying  too often as the finish will build up and mask the grain of the wood. A harsh environment or higher usage may shorten the intervals of maintenance required .